Stenar

Mt. Stenar rises above Vrata valley just opposite from Mt. Triglav. We can ascend to it from Vrata valley past Bivouac IV and 'Stenarska Vratca' saddle or across Sovatna valley. Our tour will be circular: up past bivouac, down across Sovatna. This winter tour is a real treat for experienced mountaineers. The views are phenomenal! The path is long and hard. It leads across steep slopes endangered by avalanches and should only be tackled in good snow conditions (usually in late spring).

Gallery

Where to sleep

Basic information

Location

Mojstrana Gorenjska

Difficulty

Duration

9.5 h

Start point elevation

980 m

Highest point

2499 m

Total vertical climb

1520 m

Skiing difficulty

Starting point:
Vrata Valley. On the main road 'Jesenice – Kranjska Gora' a signpost guides you to the left towards Mojstrana. Follow the signposts for Vrata and carry on from Mojstrana for about 10 km to a large parking lot in front of 'Aljažev Dom' hut at the end of the road. The road is not plowed and is usually negotiable only from March on!

Description:
Before Aljaž hut turn right in direction of signpost for Škrlatica and Križ. Follow the markings (if they are visible) and ascend through an obvious 'valley'. At around 1200 m you leave this 'valley' and turn slightly to the right, otherwise you would arrive below an impassable wall. At around 1350 m you come below the wall of Dolkova Glava, where you cross towards left. Soon you come to a rather open terrain on which you carry on towards the north-east wall of Mt. Stenar, which flourishes above you. If you are headed to Bivouac IV you have to cross at approximately 1850 m to the right (northwards), but if you are going straight to Stenar, proceed through a clear valley towards 'Stenarska Vratca' saddle (south-west direction; visible in front of you). The last 100 altitude meters before Stenarska Vratca are a bit more steep. After Stenarska Vratca comes the most difficult part. You have to cross a quite inconvenient 200 m long steep slope (direction east) until you reach a plateau below the summit of Stenar. Rise up to the summit on the left side of the top slope.

Descent: From the summit go down in the direction of the ascent to 'Stenarska Vratca' saddle, and from there southwards in the direction of the north Triglav wall, which you will admire the whole time of the descent. Imposing walls of Stenar and Bovški Gamsovec guide you to Sovatna valley, where the terrain is pretty steep in some places (up to 40º). Sovatna valley 'flows' into Vrata valley, through which you return back to the starting point.

Highest point:
Stenar: 2499 m

Duration:
Aljaž hut – Bivouac IV: 2.45 h
Bivouac IV - 'Stenarska vratca' saddle: 1.15 h
'Stenarska vratca' saddle - Stenar: 1.30 h
Stenar - Aljaž hut (across Sovatna valley): 4 h
Total: 9.30 h

Difficulty:
5 - The tour is very difficult – only experienced and properly equipped mountaineers/alpinists should tackle it in good snow conditions! A great danger of avalanches!

Skiing:
The tour is only intended for excellent skiers. The terrain is pretty steep and exposed in some places. The toughest part of skiing is crossing a steep slope above 'Stenarska Vratca' saddle, which could only be done in really good snow conditions. From the summit you should descent to Stenarska Vratca. From there you can ski to both sides (down the way of your ascent or through Sovatna valley). Maximum gradient in both cases is around 40º.
Skiing difficulty: 5
Skiing duration: ca. 2 h